This Tech Tip is one of a number we provide for the industrial engine community. It follows an earlier Tech Tip on crankshafts; Tech Tip #83: Deutz Diesel Crankshafts: A Cautionary Note and focuses on Deutz, Perkins, and John Deere crankshafts. This Dr. Diesel™ Tech Tip gives some handy hints on how to install a new Deutz, Perkins or Deere crankshaft.
Crankshaft Installation Tips
First things first. All connecting rods, connecting rod caps, and main caps should be marked before disassembly, so they may be reinstalled in their original positions.
Inspect the bores. Rod and main bearing bores should be inspected with a dial bore gauge. Any housing bore which measures out of spec should be resized. You should recondition the connecting rods. (See Tech Tip #6: Diesel Rod Reconditioning, Tech Tip #76: The Nuts and Bolts of Con Rod Reconditioning, and Tech tip #165: Deutz 912 Diesel Connecting Rod Bolts for information on using new rod bushings and rod bolts) and align hone the block as part of their regular engine rebuilding procedure.
Inspect the journals. The crankshaft’s journals must be within manufacturer’s tolerances. They must be smooth and free of burrs. Everything must be spotlessly clean.
No abrasives! Never use an abrasive on the bearing surface prior to installation. The bearing may be as thin as .0005″ (12.7 microns). Any abrasive will reduce bearing life.
Install assembly lube on dry surfaces. We use a mixture of STP and motor oil as assembly lube. The bearings should be lubed and then positioned in the rod or main saddles dry before crankshaft installation. Bearing surface finish should be 60-90Ra.
No nicks. Exercise extreme care when installing the rods. Use Foley rod bolt protectors on the rods to prevent nicks to the crankshaft.
Clean threads. Bolt threads should be cleaned and lightly lubricated.
Check bearing clearances with Plastiguage.
Properly torque all bolts. We supply free Workshop Manuals and free Foley coffee cups with our overhaul kits. Review the specs over a cup of coffee!
Pre-lubricate the engine prior to starting. Many newer engine designs use a crankshaft driven oil pump that can’t be driven by a drill motor. Using a commercially available pressure lubricator facilitates pre-lubrication of virtually any engine
For parts and service for your Deutz, Perkins or John Deere engine call us directly at 800.233.6539. International customers can call us at 1.508.753.2979. We stock, and have ready to ship, brand new Deutz, Perkins, and Deere crankshafts. Usually they cost less than welding and regrinding your shaft locally. Plus, as new shafts, they last a lot longer than a welded shaft. We have a full century (we were founded in 1916) of experience helping people running Deutz, Perkins, and John Deere industrial Engines.Read More
Another way to identify John Deere Engines
This Tech Tip, one is a series that we publish, aims to help identify and distinguish between the Powertech and non-Powertech engines.
It’s difficult to tell the John Deere Powertech engine series from the earlier John Deere 300 engine series. Afterall, they can even share the same engine model number such as John Deere 4045. But which 4045 do you have? But telling these two series apart is very important because the engine overhaul parts for a John Deere Powertech Series are different from a 300 Series and the parts are not interchangeable. Not only are the Deere sleeve kits different, but so are the Deere crankshafts. Our Foley Engines Tech Tip #88: Identifying John Deere PowerTech Engines, presented four ways to tell the difference between these two series of Deere engines. They include an identifying sticker on the engine’s valve cover, the location of the fuel lift pump, a stamped in model number, and the configuration of the bolts on the valve cover.
This Tech Tip gives a new, fifth way of distinguishing between a John Deere Powertech and a John Deere 300 Series engine. One that may be the simplest of all. This new technique involves simply counting the number of bolt holes on the nose of the John Deere crank. If you have more than one bolt, you probably are working on a John Deere Powertech engine and should order your parts accordingly. Take a look at the chart below for more information.
Number of Bolts in the Crank Nose
Which ever John Deere engine you have, we can help. Foley stocks engine overhaul parts kits and crankshafts for both John Deere 300 Series and John Deere engines and offer same day shipment from our 20,000 square foot facility.Read More
This Dr. Diesel™ Tech Tip offers some easy to implement changes to help make your shop more “green” and environmentally friendly. It’s aimed at the smaller operation, maybe a three or four person shop.Read More
Helpful tip in identifying John Deere PowerTech Engines
This Tech Tip, one in a series that we publish, is designed to help engine rebuilders distinguish the new PowerTech series of John Deere engines from the earlier Series 300 engines. John Deere diesel engines such Engines such as the 4039, 4045, etc. This is important because the new John Deere PowerTech engines take different internal parts from the older John Deere Series 300 but have the same model designation such as 4045T. In other words, if a customer has a John Deere Model 4045 engine and wants an engine kit, you first have to learn if it is a PowerTech engine or not.
Valve Cover Sticker
The classic way to tell a John Deere PowerTech diesel from an earlier series was to look on the valve cover for a sticker saying “PowerTech.” The problem is that the sticker is probably long gone and no one is sure if the engine ever had a sticker.
Model Number Differences
There will be a model number stamped below the serial number on the John Deere engine serial number plate. If the model number concludes with “150”, “151”, “180”, “220”, “250”, “275”, or higher it is a PowerTech engine. The problem is that no one in the field is going to be able to remember these numbers.
Fuel Lift Pump Location
The fuel lift pump on the PowerTech engine is located toward the rear of the engine. The fuel lift pump on the Series 300 is located toward the front of the engine. Again, there are problems with this. Many people can’t correctly identify the front of the engine.
Series 300 vs. PowerTech: The Easiest Way to Tell!
So, here is Dr Diesel’s all-time simple way to differentiate between PowerTech and Series 300. This is too important to be left to memory. Smart guys will write it on their wrist in magic marker. (Dr. Diesel™ will even send you a free magic marker if you’ve lost yours!)
Valve Cover Bolt Holes. Just look at the valve cover. If the bolt holes run around the perimeter it is a John Deere diesel, Series 300. If they run down the middle, it is a John Deere PowerTech. End of story.
Naturally, we stock both PowerTech and non-PowerTech engines and kits.
Helpful tip on how to bleed your fuel system
This Tech Tip is a follow up to Tech Tip #58, Bleeding Lucas, Stanadyne, and Diesel Kiki Fuel Systems and is one of our continuing series of Tech Tips. We suggest that you first read Tech Tip #29, Frozen Distributor? and then for really difficult situations, use some of the techniques discussed below. As with Tech Tip #58 what follows focuses on Perkins, Deutz, John Deere, and Cummins fuel systems but will have use in bleeding most any high-pressure diesel fuel injection system.
Don’t Kill the Starter Motor. The usual Lucas, Iskra or Delco starter motor as used on a Perkins or Duetz diesel is designed to run for only 30 seconds at a time. While 30 seconds of cranking may seem too short, it is quite a long time when actually doing it. Then rest it for two minutes to avoid overheating. It would be a shame to ruin a starter motor over a temporarily air-locked fuel system.
Don’t Kill the Battery. Like starter motors, starting batteries can be quickly discharged. Maybe even beyond recovery. Don’t ruin the battery as you bleed the system. If your battery is weak and you are charging the battery as you bleed the fuel system, do it carefully. Avoid a battery explosion by “jumping” the battery correctly. The price of gel cells batteries is going down but they are still expensive. We use Optima gel cell deep cycle batteries in all of our field service trucks because they resist vibration and can be recharged up to 150 times after total discharge. Given the total life cycle cost of a battery, our people think that gel cells are a no-brainer. Accordingly, we have them in stock and ready to ship to customers.
Outboard Primer Ball. For really severe cases where you have fuel up to but not through the injection pump, you can use an the primer ball from an outboard engine. Put the suction end on a fuel outlet of the injection pump and use the primer ball to suck fuel through out of the pump while turning over the engine.
Outboard Primer Balls, Part Two. Another use of an outboard engine’s primer ball (you didn’t think that Uncle Olaf’s primer ball from his old Johnson 140 should be thrown away, did you?) is to use it to remove water from your water separator. Simply hook up the suction line to the barb on the bottom of the water separator and squeeze the ball. The benefit of doing it this way is that you don’t have to remove the top cover of the water separator and let air into your system. Remember, keeping fuel in and water and air out is the name of the game.
Power Bleeding. Again, for severe cases, crack one line and then turn over the engine getting it to run. Let run for about 20 seconds with a line open at the injector. When this line squirts a steady stream of fuel, close the line. Caution: be careful where the diesel fuel lands and avoid starting a fire on a hot engine block. Yes, the engine will sound like the hammers of hell while doing this but this gets the job done.
Close the Cooling System. For marine applications, close the sea cock to prevent water from getting into the water cooled exhaust. This will prevent water from entering into the engine via the exhaust manifold and causing hydrolock. Don’t worry about running the engine without water. You’ll be cranking it over at low speeds and will have time to open up the sea cocks once the system is bled and the engine running.
Cautions. We recommend that you have a fire extinguisher handy, never, ever hold a fuel injector aimed at your skin (with pressures exceeding 2000 pounds per square inch you could easily pierce your skin and get diesel fuel into a vein), remove your nice new Vineyard Vines tie before you work on the engine, and don’t leave greasy rags in the engine compartment.
If you are still having problems, call our Service Department and they can walk you through this process and get a Workshop Manual right out to you. If you are in a hurry we can Next Day Air you remanufactured exchange Perkins, Deere, Deutz and Cummins, fuel injection pumps and injectors. If you would like, we can always pick up your pump and injectors with a UPS Call Tag to service them. Foley is different: we’re a 96-year-old, three-generation family firm that wants to help!Read More
How to safely wake a sleeping giant
Foley Engines, The oldest engine distributor in North America, takes seriously our slogan “Tech Support: It Matters”. As a result we publish a series of Dr. Diesel’s Tech Tips for the benefit of our customers and the industry.
This Tech Tip, deals with putting industrial engines back in service that has not been running for some time. Most of our suggestions apply to all engines regardless of the type of fuel used or the nature of their cooling system but focus on Perkins Diesel, Deutz, and Cummins B Series.
Fresh Fuel. Drain out the old fuel and put in new fuel. Change both the primary and secondary filter elements. Add a fuel conditioner to the tank. If a diesel, don’t bleed the system just yet.
Remove the valve cover. Use a coat of light grease on the valve cover gasket to be able to reuse it. For more information on how to do this, please read Dr. Diesel’s Tech Tip #17:Working on Deutz or Perkins Industrial Engines? 3 Unexpected Uses for Grease. Squirt or pour a half quart of engine oil into the camshaft area. Reinstall.
Remove spark plugs or fuel injectors. Using turkey baster, squirt oil into the cylinders. Install new spark plug or a set of remanufactured-exchange fuel injectors. If a diesel, bleed the system. For more helpful tips please read Foley Tech Tip #58: Bleeding Lucas, Stanadyne, and Diesel Kiki Fuel Systems as well as Foley Tech Tip #82: Bleeding Perkins, Deutz, and Deere Fuel systems (Part 2).
Remove the air cleaner or the wire mesh screen over the air intake (Perkins marine diesels don’t have air filters). Then dribble fresh fuel or WD40 into the intake area. Set the choke if a carbureted engine. Install a new air cleaner element or a Walker AirSep if a marine diesel, especially on air-filter-less Perkins marine engines.
Remove the old battery and install a new one. We strongly suggest a deep cycle gel cell battery to absorb the vibration and pounding of off road and marine applications. (Our company trucks all run deep cycle Optima gel cells and this has lowered our maintenance cost and down time.) With a wire brush clean the battery tray and spray it with some penetrating oil. Install cloth or fiber battery terminal discs over the terminals to minimize corrosion. Check and install new battery cables as necessary. Poor electrical connections are leading cause of engine problems.
Fire the engine up. Stand back and watch the accumulated carbon, mouse droppings and rust come out the exhaust. Let it idle for about three minutes to get everything working then shut down the engine.
Filter, coolant and impellers. At this point you should drain the now-warm old oil and change it and the oil filter. While opinions differ on oil filter brands, seemingly Fram is one of the poorest with its cardboard construction. There is a long discussion on oil filters at the Edmunds website which we recommend. We suggest that you use the engine manufacturer’s genuine oil filter, and avoid the Kmart Specials. The genuine filters are usually better, have anti-drain back valves and are about the same price.
For example, we offer two genuine Perkins oil filters and two genuine Perkins secondary fuel filters and a container of Lucas fuel conditioner for most Perkins diesels for just $29.95!
Incidentally, used engine oil when mixed with linseed oil makes a marvelous deck stain. Make enough of it and you could sell it to your yuppie neighbors as “Ye Olde Nantucket Deck Stain”. If you don’t want to do that, please read Tech Tip #33: Disposing of used Lube Oil for how to dispose of used motor oil. Look for any oil leaks. Drain the coolant from the block and change all of the soft hoses. Now is the time to change the impeller on the raw water pump on marine engine. We recommend and sell an impeller that is impregnated with oil and guaranteed to work even if dry!
While we can’t guarantee that following the above steps will eliminate the necessity of a $95 per hour field service technician visiting you, this is a good start in getting an engine back into service that has been laid up for a while. Dr. Diesel™ Says that if you skip any of the above steps he is not going boating with you.
We stock workshop manuals for Deutz, Deere, Perkins, and Cummins B series engines and could get one right out to you.
Helpful guide for working on your John Deere Industrial engine
Most of what you need to know about rebuilding an engine is the same regardless of what engine it is. But one thing that is different across engines is the torque you need to use when tightening the connecting rod and main bearing cap bolts.
Naturally, every engine’s workshop manual will list the torque specifications applicable to that engine. But if you are doing fine by the seat of your pants, and only need the torque specifications for your John Deere engine, this Tech Tip is for you. Of course, we have John Deere workshop manuals ready for same day shipping by Next Day Air if you need a more complete reference.
John Deere 300 Series (3179, 4239, 6359, 4270, 6414):
Main bearing caps: 85 lb/ft
Connecting rod caps: 50-55 lb/ft (T20007, R51727, R58978, R81410); 95 lb/ft (R54617, R56187)
John Deere 400 Series (6404, 6466, 6076)
Main bearing caps: 150 lb/ft
Connecting rod caps: torque to 20 lb/ft, then torque to 55 lb/ft, then ¼ turn
John Deere 500 Series (6531 and 6619)
Main bearing caps: 210 lb/ft
Connecting rod caps: torque to 20 lb/ft, then torque to 55 lb/ft, then ¼ turn
We don’t recommend that you re-use connecting rod cap bolts. As you can imagine from these torque specifications, the bolts will have stretched. You risk damaging your engine if you use your old bolts. See Foley Tech Tip #76, The Nuts and Bolts of Con Rod Reconditioning, on the importance of using fresh connecting rod cap bolts each time. We supply new bolts in all of our major overhaul kits for Perkins Deutz, and Deere.Read More
How to put the spring back in to your cylinder head
Rebuilding your John Deere, Deutz or Perkins cylinder head? Here is a no cost way to extend valve spring life. Simply polish each end of the valve spring in a figure eight motion with 200 grit emery paper. This works especially well on cylinder heads with two sets of valve springs (inner and outer) such as some Perkins 4108 marine engines and John Deere engines. On Continental flathead valve springs remember that the coils once polished must be placed with the end with the tightened windings pointed down toward the oil pan.
Simple step that can make a big difference
Rebuilding your Perkins, Deutz, or Deere Industrial engine and want to do what the race car guys do? High performance engine builders have long suggested painting the internal surfaces of an engine to speed oil drain back. Painting the casting will give a smoother travel surface for the oil. Our people use and recommend General Electricâs Glystal paint. This is available from your local electrical warehouse distributor as it was designed to be used as paint for the covers of electrical motors. Use it in the lifter areas and front timing gear area and watch for faster oil circulation. This is very helpful on cold start-ups!
How to keep your Exhaust Manifold in check
A leaking exhaust manifolds on a Perkins, Deere or Deutz engine can be annoying. If left alone, this can lead to burst exhaust valves.
Here’s how to stop a leak:
Check the manifold flanges with a straight-edge and a feeler gauge. (You shouldn’t be able to slide a .010 inch feeler gauge under the straight edge.)
Clean and resurface as necessary. (A belt surfacer does a good job.)
Soak the manifold gasket in water and using a blow drier, heat-shrink it into place.
Use high temp copper silicone sealant around each of the port openings. (Note: This works only on traditional asbestos-style gaskets.)
Because access to the studs or bolts will be limited, use a Snap-On brand high performance 12 point socket (with it’s thinner walls). The lower priced imported sockets have very thick walls. Dr. Diesel™ suggests that aftermarket sockets should only be used as sinkers on cod fish rigs.
To prevent the bolts from loosening, use a high temp silicone sealant like Lock-Tite.
Tighten in a circular, hop-scotch pattern as you would on a cylinder head. Re-tighten after 10 hours. If working on a torque-to-yield head bolt setup, as on a Deutz diesel, call us toll free at 1.800.233.6539 for the Deutz Workshop manual. You’ll need it!