How to Break-In a Re-manufactured Deutz Engine
The lube oil you choose to run in your Diesel engine plays a vital role in the ability of the engine to operate safely, achieve a long life, and have a minimal impact on the environment. Considering today’s modern engines, the lube oil has to meet some very exacting standards to achieve those goals.
In general, diesel engine oil must meet the following requirements:

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Deutz 1012/1013 Cooling System Service and Maintenance
Cleaning Intervals

The amount of contamination in the cooling system depends on the engine applications.
Spilled oil or fuel on the engine increases the risk of contamination. Be especially careful if the engine is used in dusty environments.
Serious contamination can occur for example:

on construction sites where thee is a high  level of air-borne dust.
in harvesting applications where there are high concentrations of chaff and chopped straw in the vicinity of the machine

Because applications vary, cleaning intervals have to be determined from case to case. The cleaning intervals given in the table below can be used as a guide.

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This Dr. Diesel™ Tech Tip is one of number that we publish for people servicing Deutz diesel engines. This one focuses on maintaining the Deutz Model 2011 engine. As we have outlined in earlier Tech Tips (see for example:

Tech Tip #168: Deutz 1011 and 2011 Timing Belt Change Intervals,
Tech Tip #125: Deutz Diesel and Ford Industrial Engine Timing Belts,
Tech Tip #144: Deutz 1011 and 2011 Timing Belt Tension)and even on a
YouTube video: How to Install a Deutz 1011 / 2011 Timing Belt

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This Dr. Diesel™ Tech Tip is one of a series that we publish to advance the knowledge base in the marine and industrial engine industry. It focuses on overhauling the Deutz 1011 and Deutz 2011 series diesel engines. For other related Tech Tips see

Tech Tip #13: Leaking Deutz, Deere, Perkins or Ford Industrial Exhaust Manifold?,
Tech Tip #72: Saving Worn Deutz, Continental and Wisconsin Blocks, and
Tech Tip #171: Deutz Head Gaskets: Composite or MLS?.

We also have several YouTube videos on Deutz engine maintenance (see for example Deutz 1011 & 2011 Timing Belt Installation Tutorialand Deutz 1011 / 2011 Engine Serial Number Location.

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Deutz diesel engines can be difficult to work on and parts help hard to find.
This Tech Tip, one in a series we publish for the industrial engine community, follows on the heels of other Dr. Diesel™ Tech Tips that focus on Deutz engines. See for example:

Tech Tip #86: Deutz Diesel Fuel Systems: How to identify the correct Deutz 912 Diesel Series Fuel Pumps and Injectors and
Tech Tip #170: All You Need to Know to Install a Deutz, Perkins or Deere Crankshaft.

If you need help finding your Deutz engine serial number, we have a helpful video guide as well! Just click here!
This Dr. Diesel™ Tech Tip discusses Deutz cylinder head gaskets and which type, MLS or composite, to select when servicing an industrial engine such as a Perkins, Deutz or John Deere. We will illustrate this Tech Tip with examples from Deutz diesel engines but the principles apply to all industrial engines.
When ordering a replacement head gasket for a Deutz engine, you are often asked if you want a “composite gasket” or one that is “multilayer steel.” This is often abbreviated as an “MLS” head gasket. This is an important question. Fortunately, arriving at the correct answer is very simple. Here is some background to help you out.
1) Multilayer steel head gaskets have been used for years in internal combustion engines. They have as many as 3, 4 or even 7 layers of steel with the outer layers usually composed of “spring steel” to achieve a positive seal. A thin coating of Viton or nitrile rubber is often used between the layers of steel as well as on the external surface to help the gasket seal better. It is less common now, but many mechanics over the years would coat the gasket with shellac when installing it. The MLS gasket is a rugged gasket, used very frequently on high horsepower, big bore engines. If properly installed, it will not “blow out” very easily.
But a multilayer steel head gasket needs to be installed on a smooth surface, at least 40 Ra (“Rough average”) or smoother, if it is to hold. It is best if you can get the surface down to 30 Ra (or lower). Another way of measuring smoothness is Rz. This is a better indicator of the texture across the complete head surface. Rz is the average of the difference between the peak height and valley depth across the head surface and an Rz of 180 or less is the goal.
Unfortunately, no matter how you measure it (Ra or Rz) many old time automotive machine shops can’t achieve these new specs because they lack modern surfacing equipment. For example, the Storm Vulcan Model 85B Blockmaster surface grinder (which is still found in many small shops) just can’t resurface to that spec. A belt surfacing machine also can’t begin to achieve this level of smoothness. You would probably do equally well just dragging the cylinder head behind your pick-up down the road for a mile or so.
2) Composite gaskets are a recent innovation in head gaskets. They are far more forgiving of rough surfaces or blocks with protruding liners, and hold better on a rough surface. In fact, they need a surface roughness of Ra 40 (or 240 Rz) or higher to work well. The maximum surface roughness that a composite head gasket can handle is 100 Ra or 600 Rz. Not only do they hold well on less than ideal head surfaces, a composite head gasket cost a little less than an MLS head gasket.
Which One Should You Yse?
If you are doing a total overhaul of your Deutz engine (and will have the head resurfaced as well, as the top of the block “decked” by a competent diesel shop) you probably want to use an MLS gasket. It will last longer, hold better, and you would want it on a larger bore, higher horsepower engine such as a Deutz 1012, 1013, 1015, etc.
On the other hand, if you have an interference-fit Deutz (such as a Deutz 1011 or 2011) you have a different kettle of fish, as we say on the coast of New England. With a Deutz 1011 or Deutz 2011 (because they are interference fit engines) when the timing belt breaks – and it will – the pistons will hit the valves, bend them, and maybe even damage the cylinder head.
If you are the average guy, with a Deutz powered stump grinder or aerial lift, you are pressed for time and need to go right back to work. You probably are just going to remove the Deutz head, replace a valve or two, and throw the head back on without resurfacing it or the deck. In this case, you would want to use a composite head gasket because it will hold better on that rough surface. At the same time, you will need to put on a new timing belt. See Dr. Diesel™ Tech Tip #144: Deutz 1011 and 2011 Timing Belt Tension for information on how to install a Deutz 1011 or Deutz 2011 timing belt and pulley.
Let’s Not Forget …
Cylinder head bolt hardware is important. Cylinder head bolts perform a tough job and shouldn’t automatically be re-used. They endure many temperature cycles and (over time) will stretch, fatigue, and lose their clamping ability. No amount of head bolt over-tightening will overcome this. While you could invest in a head bolt gauge to measure head bolt stretch, it is less expensive (and easier) to simply replace the head bolts.
To help you put on the cylinder head so it stays on, we stock new head bolts (and also new rod bolts) for all Deutz diesels. We include them in most of our Foley Hytork Engine Overhaul Kits free of charge.
If your old Deutz head doesn’t pass inspection or you just can’t wait for the local shop to get to it, we stock factory remanufactured heads and can get one right out to you. Just call us toll free at 800.233.6539 with the model of the engine and a head casting number. It’s as simple as that.
Head gasket selection is an important part of the overhaul of a Deutz engine. If you are not going to resurface the block and head, we recommend a composite head gasket. In any case, whichever gasket type you use, we strongly suggest a set of new head bolts and supply them free of charge in most of our Deutz rebuild kits. We also suggest the head bolts be torqued correctly to achieve maximum sealing. Torquing a Deutz head is a complicated, multi-step process that is outlined in the Deutz Workshop Manual for your engine.
We hope that this Dr. Diesel™ Tech Tip is helpful to those working on Deutz diesel (and other) industrial engines. To support people like you, we stock over 20,000 square feet of Deutz replacement parts, turbos, Workshop Manuals, etc.

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This Tech Tip is one of a number we provide for the industrial engine community. It follows an earlier Tech Tip on crankshafts; Tech Tip #83: Deutz Diesel Crankshafts: A Cautionary Note and  focuses on Deutz, Perkins, and John Deere crankshafts. This Dr. Diesel™ Tech Tip gives some handy hints on how to install a new Deutz, Perkins or Deere crankshaft.
Crankshaft Installation Tips

First things first. All connecting rods, connecting rod caps, and main caps should be marked before disassembly, so they may be reinstalled in their original positions.
Inspect the bores. Rod and main bearing bores should be inspected with a dial bore gauge. Any housing bore which measures out of spec should be resized. You should recondition the connecting rods. (See Tech Tip #6: Diesel Rod Reconditioning, Tech Tip #76: The Nuts and Bolts of Con Rod Reconditioning, and Tech tip #165: Deutz 912 Diesel Connecting Rod Bolts for information on using new rod bushings and rod bolts) and align hone the block as part of their regular engine rebuilding procedure.
Inspect the journals. The crankshaft’s journals must be within manufacturer’s tolerances. They must be smooth and free of burrs. Everything must be spotlessly clean.
No abrasives! Never use an abrasive on the bearing surface prior to installation. The bearing may be as thin as .0005″ (12.7 microns). Any abrasive will reduce bearing life.
Install assembly lube on dry surfaces. We use a mixture of STP and motor oil as assembly lube. The bearings should be lubed and then positioned in the rod or main saddles dry before crankshaft installation. Bearing surface finish should be 60-90Ra.
No nicks. Exercise extreme care when installing the rods. Use Foley rod bolt protectors on the rods to prevent nicks to the crankshaft.
Clean threads. Bolt threads should be cleaned and lightly lubricated.
Check bearing clearances with Plastiguage.
Properly torque all bolts. We supply free Workshop Manuals and free Foley coffee cups with our overhaul kits. Review the specs over a cup of coffee!
Pre-lubricate the engine prior to starting. Many newer engine designs use a crankshaft driven oil pump that can’t be driven by a drill motor. Using a commercially available pressure lubricator facilitates pre-lubrication of virtually any engine

For parts and service for your Deutz, Perkins or John Deere engine call us directly at 800.233.6539. International customers can call us at 1.508.753.2979. We stock, and have ready to ship, brand new Deutz, Perkins, and Deere crankshafts. Usually they cost less than welding and regrinding your shaft locally. Plus, as new shafts, they last a lot longer than a welded shaft. We have a full century (we were founded in 1916) of experience helping people running Deutz, Perkins, and John Deere industrial Engines.

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This Tech Tip is one of a number that we publish for the engine community. This new Tech Tip discusses the importance of cooling fans on Deutz and Wisconsin air cooled engines and suggests a neat trick to avoid major problems.
Many Deutz diesels, such as the Deutz 912 and 913 Series (as well as all Wisconsin engines), have large cooling fans. These fans are often called blowers or, in the case of Deutz, referred to as impellers. Deutz cooling fans are belt driven and draw air into and across the engine to cool it. Air cooled engines, such as the F6L912 Deutz series, are simple with no radiators, water pumps, or hoses to worry about. They work reasonably well especially in applications such as rock crushers or drill rigs which vibrate heavily and shorten the life of conventional radiator equipped cooling systems.
The problem with an air cooling blower shows up in especially dusty or gritty applications, such as engine-driven concrete saws. Over time the fans collect concrete dust or grit and load up. This can lead to significant issues, especially on Wisconsin engines where the flywheel is the cooling fan. Worn cooling fans and clogged cooling fans or flywheels lead to two different problems.

Engine Overheating: If the cooling fan is run in a dirty or dusty environment, and not maintained, it will gradually wear the impeller fins so they no longer have a close fit to the housing. As a result, the air cooled engine will eventually overheat without anyone knowing the reason.
Crankshaft Problems: When your air-cooled Deutz or Wisconsin is running a concrete saw, the dust sometimes can cake on the fan. This leads to an out of balance flywheel. This will cause vibration problems and eventual crankshaft failure.

But we have found a partial solution. We suggest that anyone who owns a Deutz or a Wisconsin engine, powering a concrete saw, or an engine working in a dusty environment, should paint the impeller with yellow paint to monitor the buildup of dust. Once the yellow paint is covered up this is a tell-tale sign to shut the Deutz or Wisconsin engine down and do some much needed maintenance.
Running a fleet of Deutz powered equipment? Have a boss pushing you to save money? When you do have a worn blower or impeller, one that is worn beyond a mere cleaning, make sure that you replace it with the correct one, not just one that “fits”. For example, while the impeller from a Deutz F2L1011F or Deutz F3L1011F has the same mounting bolt pattern as one on a four cylinder Deutz BF4L1011F and will mount in its place, it won’t properly cool the larger engine. This will lead to problems.
For more information on Deutz and Wisconsin engines check out some of our previous Tech Tips like:

Tech Tip #72: Saving Worn Deutz, Continental and Wisconsin Blocks,
Tech Tip #125: Deutz Diesel and Ford Industrial Engine Timing Belts: All You Need to Know to About Deutz and Ford Timing Belts, and
Tech Tip #168: Deutz 1011 and 2011 Timing Belt Change Intervals: All You Need to Know About Deutz Timing Belt Change Intervals.

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This Dr. Diesel™ Tech Tip, #168, is one in a series that we publish for people who run industrial engines.  In contrast to most of our other Dr. Diesel™ Tech Tips, this one is aimed more at people who are responsible for the maintenance of industrial engines, in this case Deutz 1011 and 2011, and less at people who do the actual turning of wrenches. In other words, it is less a “How To” and more of a “Why and When to Do It”.
Timing Gears vs Belts
Unlike the vast majority of industrial engines, the Deutz 1011 and Deutz 2011 series engines use a rubber timing belt to link the crankshaft with the camshaft.  This is very unusual. Even the lowly Ford 300 gas engine when configured as the Ford Industrial Engine Model CSG649i engine uses heavy cast iron timing gears. Why Deutz, “The Engine Company”, chose to use a timing belt is puzzling.  Sure it’s cheaper and quieter, but when it rots and fails, it isn’t fun.
A broken belt will result in expensive noises, unexpected down time and possibly put careers at risk. (“Gee, Boss, I know we’ve got a paving crew standing around watching the mechanics pull the head off to check for damage. But nobody told me that the timing belt on the Deutz needed to be changed before we sent the roller out.”)
The Story Gets Worse
Not only does Deutz equip the 1011 and 2011 Series with a timing belt, the Deutz 1011 and 2011 diesel engine is also what is called an interference fit engine. This means that there is a very close tolerance between the top of the piston and the bottom of the valves. Because there isn’t any slack between the internal rotating components, when an old belt breaks, the pistons will hit the valves, damaging them and possibly also damaging the cylinder head casting. (See CarScope Auto Repair and Diagnostics for more on interference fit engines and timing belt changes.)
Timing Belt Change Interval
We strongly recommend that people who own a Deutz 1011 or 2011 diesel engine change the rubber timing belt every 1000 hours of operation. In terms of a passenger car, this would be roughly at 60,000 mile intervals. Failure to do so can result in a damaged Deutz 1011 or Deutz 2011 cylinder head and expensive down time.  What does the old AAMCO transmission ad say? Pay us now, or pay us later?
The Right Tools
Changing the belt isn’t difficult. See for example our Dr. Diesel™ Tech Tips like Tech Tip #125: Deutz Diesel and Ford Industrial Engine Timing Belts: How to Avoid a Big ProblemTech Tip #144: Deutz 1011 and 2011 Timing Belt Tension, and Tech Tip #149: Deutz Timing Belt Damage: Rocker Tower Bolts. But you have to have the right tools. We’ve put together a Foley Deutz 1011/2011 Timing Belt Kit  that includes a new timing belt, a timing belt tensioner pulley, a pair of timing pins to lock the engine in place so you don’t change its ‘time’, and  a nice OTC timing belt tension gauge. Naturally, both the set of pins and the gauge can be re-used.
Because we don’t want to benefit from someone else’s misfortunes, we’ve intentionally kept the price of this timing belt kit low.  As of Spring 2014, we offer this kit for just $449. This is an attractive price. Deutz charges over $800 alone just for their belt tension gauge which carries aDeutz part number of 301095. Because the kits are different, please advise if you have a Deutz1011 or a Deutz 2011 when you call to order.
If you are working on an engine whose timing belt has failed, you should also change the rocker tower bolts. These are torque-to-yield bolts that will have stretched when the belt broke. They are very inexpensive to replace (roughly $5 per bolt with two used per cylinder) and cheap insurance going forward.
How to Find Your Deutz 1011 or 2011 Serial Number
Want to order a belt kit from us but you’re not sure if you have a Deutz 1011 or 2011 engine? We’ve out together a YouTube video on How to Find Your Deutz 1011/2011 Serial Number. (Just click on the link to see the YouTube video.) If you call us with that number when you order your belt kit, we can unscramble it for you.
We’ve Got You Covered
We’ve got you covered though if you don’t catch the belt in time. Not only do we stock Deutz 1011 and Deutz 2011 intake and exhaust valves, we also have remanufactured Deutz 1011 and 2011 cylinder heads in stock and ready to go. One of our remanufactured heads will get you back up and running very quickly.

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