- Exhaust Products
- Ford Industrial
- Twin Disc, Rockford & AutoClutch
- Hurth & ZF Marine Gear
- Engine Governors
- Tech Tips & Video
- Free Tech Tips
- #128: Avoiding an Early Failure with a Deutz 1011 / 2011 Rebuilt
- #191: How to Upgrade an AutoClutch PTO
- #192: Perkins 4.107/4.108 Stainless Steel Exhaust Elbows
- #193: Deutz 1011 and Deutz 2011 Electronic Shutoff Solenoids
- #194: How to Identify Ford VSG411 and VSG413 Starters
- #195: How to Identify Perkins 4.107 and 4.108 Lift Pumps
- #196: Ford 300 Ring Gears Made Easy
- #197: How to Identify Your Ford Industrial Model Year
- #198: Wisconsin and Continental Solid State Distributor Installation Made Easy
- #199: Deutz Engine Serial Number Location Made Easy
- #200: Rebuilding Deutz Connecting Rods
- #201: Wisconsin Two Cylinder Cast Iron Engines: How to Tell the TJD from the THD
- #203: Deutz and Perkins Turbocharger Maintenance Made Easy
- #204: How to Identify the Hercules G1600 Engine
- Tech Tip #202: Ford 300 Cylinder Head Differences Made Easy
- #170: All You Need to Know to Install a Deutz, Perkins or Deere Crankshaft
- #171: Deutz Head Gaskets: Composite or MLS?
- #172: A Five Point Checklist on Deutz Head Bolts and Torque Values
- #173: How to Remove a Perkins 4.108 Injection Pump in Two Easy Steps
- #174: Five Points to Keep in Mind When Overhauling a Deutz 1011 or Deutz 2011 Diesel Engine
- #175: Deutz 2011 Timing Belts; How to Remove the Plastic Cover on the Deutz 2011 Timing Cover When Changing a 2011 Belt
- #176: 120 Series Electric Actuator
- #177: Crankshaft Installation Tips
- #178: Deutz 1012/1013 Cooling System Service and Maintinence
- #179: Dr. Diesel's Turbocharger Installation Manual
- #180: EPA Tier 3 Deutz Engine Specs
- #181: Exhaust Purifier Installation Procedures
- #182: Hoof/Pierce Governor Instructional Guide
- #183: How To Install A Lucas CAV/Delphi Pump
- #184: How to Break-In a Remanufactured Deutz Engine
- #185: Installation Instructions for Complete Distributors (View PDF)
- #186: Isuzu Industrial Diesel Engine Serial Number Location
- #187: Notes on Installing Twin Disc/Rockford Power Takeoffs
- #188: Perkins Engine Number and Location Guide
- #189: Perkins Marine Power 4.108(M)
- #190: Turbocharger Installation Instructions
- Ask Dr. Diesel
- Free Tech Tips
- Company Info
- About Us
- FAQs & Policies
- Industry Links
- How To Manuals
- Contact Us
ZF/Hurth and BorgWarner Damper Plates: Shake, Rattle and Roll
The hard life of Damper Plates - Tech Tip #104
This Tech Tip, one in ongoing series we publish for Hurth and Borgwarner Velvet Drive marine transmission owners, is aimed at helping people understand their marine damper plates. This Tech Tip follows other Tech Tips that discuss Hurth marine transmissions: Tech Tip #22, Hurth Gears: Care and Maintenance, Tech Tip #78: Hurth Marine Transmissions: The Ins and Outs of Basic Service, and Tech Tip #96, ZF/Hurth Marine Transmissions: A Six Step Program. We also discuss Hurth and Borg warner marine gears in our Tech Tip #2, Marine Transmission Fluid, Tech Tip #47, Avoiding Idling Gears, An Interview in National Fisherman, Tech Tip #51, Souping Up the Series 72 Borg Warner Gear, Tech Tip #59, ZF/Hurth Marine Coupler or Damper Plate 101, Tech Tip #101, Hurth Gear Shift Position: A Warning, and Tech Tip #105, Hurth and ZF/Hurth Marine Transmissions: Old Wine in New Bottles?
Damper plates lead a tough life
They work in the dark, are often soaked in salt water, and are never checked, let alone maintained. They are the marine equivalent of a mushroom! The damper plate is bolted to the flywheel with a half dozen or so small metric allen bolts. Into this clutch like plate slides the splined input shaft of the Hurth or Borgwarner gear. The damper plate acts as coupler between the engine and the transmission and all torque is transmitted through it.
Noisy damper plate
Sometimes these hard working clutches rebel and their springs loosen up and even fall out. Or one or more of the allen bolts back out and the plate become loose and moves around. Symptoms of this will be a rattling sound from the bellhousing area when in neutral. Engaging gear is often difficult and the Hurth gear is hard to shift. Often loose or missing springs is the only problem. People often think that they need a new transmission when all they need is to replace the damper plate.
What to look for
If you suspect that your damper plate springs are loose and rattling around and that you have damper plate problems here is what to look for. First check your linkage to ensure that everything is tight and working properly. Then check that the bolts holding the damper plate in place are present and installed correctly. Verify that the Hurth or Borgwarner gear is not mis-aligned. Use a dial indicator to check for this. Finally, if the damper plate is worn and/or springs are missing, check to see that your Hurth or Borgwarner gear's front bearing hasn't failed. Worn damper plates can often cause the transmissions' input shaft to wear and result in front bearing failure.
If your damper plate is worn, not to worry. We stock damper plates for most applications and have them ready for same day shipment anywhere in the world. We also have ZF/Hurth and Borgwarner Workshop Manuals and our Foley Hurth Hytork Fluid that we can send. As you can see, if you own a Hurth or a Borgwarner, we've got you covered!
We take tech support seriously!
We hope that you will find this Tech Tip helpful. We believe that Tech Support matters and welcome your comments or suggestions.
Please email Dr. Diesel™ using our contact form or call us at 800.233.6539.