- Home
- Products
- Engine Products
- Exhaust Products
- Services
- Specials
- Tech Tips, News & More
- News
- Free Tech Tips
- #153 Hurth HBW50/100/125/150 Transmissions: Two Common Problems Easily Avoided
- #155: Chrysler LH318 & LH360 Industrial Engines: Easy Block Repair
- #141 Deutz Diesel Engine Model 1013 Fuel Transfer Pumps
- #142 Ford 330 Industrial Engines: Identifying the Dorset and the Dagenham Models
- #143 How NOT To Seat the Piston Rings on Your New Ford 300 Industrial Engine; Cleaning Components When Swapping Accessories
- #144 Deutz 1011 and 2011 Timing Belt Tension
- #145 Installing an Electronic Governor: Five Easy Tips
- #146 Yanmar Engine Tag Locations
- #147 Running a Twin Disc/Rockford? Want It To Last Longer?
- #148: Ford Industrial In-Line 6 Cylinder Gas Engines: How to Tell Them Apart
- #154: AutoClutch Power Takeoff Clutches
- All Tech Tips
- Ask Dr. Diesel
- Videos
- Industry Links
- Guides, Forms & Tags
- Company Info
- Contact Us
How NOT To Seat the Piston Rings on Your New Ford 300 Industrial Engine; Cleaning Components When Swapping Accessories
Helpful Tip for Anyone with a New Ford 300 Industrial Engine - Tech Tip #143
This Tech Tip is part of an ongoing series that we publish relating to Deutz, Deere, Perkins, Ford, Continental and Wisconsin Industrial engines. It is particularly relevant to someone swapping components from an old engine to a new base engine.
Most of the Deutz, Deere and Perkins diesel engines we supply people are factory remanufactured, dyno tested engines that are complete with all accessories, except electrical. These engines are ready for installation and are essentially ready to run. In fact, as dyno tested engines they have been run-in at the factory. People love the plug 'n’ play convenience and ease of warranty of a complete engine.
However, many of our customers still run Ford, Wisconsin and Continental industrial gas engines. We usually supply these gas engines as remanufactured base engines, complete valve cover down through the oil pan, but less the accessories. The installing mechanic then dresses out
our replacement engine by swapping over accessories such as the intake and exhaust manifolds and occasionally changing the oil pan or front gear cover.
When preparing accessories for installation on a fresh engine, mechanics sometime use rotary buffers and grinders to clean gasket surfaces. This is a bad practice. It can dramatically shorten the engine's life because the resulting debris from the buffer can enter the fresh engine's lube oil system and cause premature bearing failure. This debris can also enter the cylinders through the intake ports and scuff the cylinder walls and piston rings.
We strongly recommend that when you clean manifold gasket surfaces prior to re-installation that you use either a jet spray washer or preferably, that you an industrial baking oven and then lightly shot blast the baked components. As a final touch, you should run the manifolds across a belt surfacer to square up their mating surfaces to prevent leaks. In any case, do not use a hand held grinder or buffer. This is not a good way to seat your rings.
For more information on installing and engine, see our Guides, Forms and Tags section for Form #17, Installing a Replacement Engine.
We take tech support seriously!
We hope that you will find this Tech Tip helpful. We believe that Tech Support matters and welcome your comments or suggestions.
Please email Dr. Diesel using our contact form or call us at 800.233.6539.

