- Exhaust Products
- Ford Industrial
- Twin Disc, Rockford & AutoClutch
- Hurth & ZF Marine Gear
- Engine Governors
- Tech Tips & Video
- Free Tech Tips
- #128: Avoiding an Early Failure with a Deutz 1011 / 2011 Rebuilt
- #191: How to Upgrade an AutoClutch PTO
- #192: Perkins 4.107/4.108 Stainless Steel Exhaust Elbows
- #193: Deutz 1011 and Deutz 2011 Electronic Shutoff Solenoids
- #194: How to Identify Ford VSG411 and VSG413 Starters
- #195: How to Identify Perkins 4.107 and 4.108 Lift Pumps
- #196: Ford 300 Ring Gears Made Easy
- #197: How to Identify Your Ford Industrial Model Year
- #198: Wisconsin and Continental Solid State Distributor Installation Made Easy
- #199: Deutz Engine Serial Number Location Made Easy
- #200: Rebuilding Deutz Connecting Rods
- #201: Wisconsin Two Cylinder Cast Iron Engines: How to Tell the TJD from the THD
- #203: Deutz and Perkins Turbocharger Maintenance Made Easy
- #204: How to Identify the Hercules G1600 Engine
- #205: Twin Disc or Rockford Not lasting as Long as it should? Here's an Easy Fix
- #206: Twin Disc and Rockford PTO Lubrication: How Often and How Much should I Lubricate my Power Takeoff?
- #207: Twin Disc IBF314 Power Takeoff Clutch
- #208: Perkins 1000 Series Connecting Rods: Fractured or Serrated?
- #209: Ford LSG423 Gasket Identification Made Easy
- #210: Twin Disc Clutch Adjustment
- #212: Identifying the Ford 460 Water Pump
- #213: Working on a Deutz 511 engine? Here’s How to Find the Serial Number
- #214: AutoClutch PTOs Made Easy
- Tech Tip #202: Ford 300 Cylinder Head Differences Made Easy
- #170: All You Need to Know to Install a Deutz, Perkins or Deere Crankshaft
- #171: Deutz Head Gaskets: Composite or MLS?
- #173: How to Remove a Perkins 4.108 Injection Pump in Two Easy Steps
- #174: Five Points to Keep in Mind When Overhauling a Deutz 1011 or Deutz 2011 Diesel Engine
- #175: Deutz 2011 Timing Belts; How to Remove the Plastic Cover on the Deutz 2011 Timing Cover When Changing a 2011 Belt
- #211: How to Identify the Hercules D2000, D2300, D3400, G2000, G2300 and G3400 Engines
- #176: 120 Series Electric Actuator
- #177: Crankshaft Installation Tips
- #178: Deutz 1012/1013 Cooling System Service and Maintinence
- #179: Dr. Diesel's Turbocharger Installation Manual
- #180: EPA Tier 3 Deutz Engine Specs
- #181: Exhaust Purifier Installation Procedures
- #182: Hoof/Pierce Governor Instructional Guide
- #183: How To Install A Lucas CAV/Delphi Pump
- #184: How to Break-In a Remanufactured Deutz Engine
- #185: Installation Instructions for Complete Distributors (View PDF)
- #186: Isuzu Industrial Diesel Engine Serial Number Location
- #187: Notes on Installing Twin Disc/Rockford Power Takeoffs
- #188: Perkins Engine Number and Location Guide
- #189: Perkins Marine Power 4.108(M)
- #190: Turbocharger Installation Instructions
- Ask Dr. Diesel
- Free Tech Tips
- Company Info
- About Us
- FAQs & Policies
- Industry Links
- How To Manuals
- Contact Us
Ensuring Head Gasket Longevity on Continental Industrial Engines
Get the most out of your head gasket on your Continental Industrial Engine - Tech Tip #84
This Tech Tip, one in a number that we publish for people rebuilding and maintaining Continental Red Seal engines, discusses how to cure the perennial problem of blown head gaskets on these industrial engines.
Over the last 60 years Continental Red Seal industrial engines have been used extensively in forklifts, welding machines, cable tool rigs, and in a wide array of other industrial applications. The four cylinder Continental industrial models began with the model F124 and became successively models F135, F140, F162 and F163. Each model number stands for its cubic inch displacement. The six cylinder Continental Red Seal engines began as the F186 and became progressively the F209, F218, F226, F227, F244, and F245. Again, each model number represents its displacement. Initially, these long, thin flatheads were clamped to the top of the block with studs. Later the Continental factory in Muskegon, MI used cap screws.
While these Continental gas engines are rugged, easy to fix and will run on little more than turpentine or household cleaner, many have been in service for over 50 years and have been repeatedly rebuilt. As a result, we have seen an increase recently in head gasket failures. There are several reasons for this. As people convert form gas to propane, operating temperatures rise and the head gasket often lets go. Additionally, after years of over tightening the studs, the top of the block is often distorted and pulled up. This results in a poor sealing surface. For those Continental industrial engine blocks that have been converted over to capscrews, the capscrews will have stretched after numerous rebuilds. Finally, younger mechanics more used to overhead valve engines with their short, heavy cylinder heads are not aware of the necessity to re-torque the long, thin cylinder head on these flathead Continental industrials after the first warm up following a rebuild. But we have some solutions to this growing problem.
- Resurface both the head AND the block.
Make it a part of any overhaul to resurface the top of the block as well as the cylinder head. This will remove any distortions in the top of the engine block caused by over tightening over the years.
- Change fasteners.
We strongly suggest that you use new Continental industrial OEM head bolts. After all these years it is simply good practice to switch to all new capscrews for these Continental Red Seals. The old head bolts or the even older studs will have stretched. Foley stocks genuine Continental Industrial capscrew sets for these Continentals and we even have the extra long ones for the accessory brackets as well as the one small capscrew with a star shaped head that goes near the distributor hole.
- Use sealant.
Install these new cap screws with a high temperature, modern sealant. While the Continental factory manual recommends that you install the fasteners dry, this suggestion was made before modern sealants. We use and highly recommend a sealant made by Mercury Marine and sold under the Quicksilver brand as "Perfect Seal". They sell it as PN 92-34227-1. This copper colored sealant can be purchased from any Mercury outboard dealer. Swab it liberally on the capscrews before you slide them through the Continental cylinder head. We have heard that this Perfect Seal sealant was originally formulated by Mack Truck for their engines but we can't confirm this. What we can confirm is that it works and we buy it by pallet load for our remanufacturing operations.
- Use the right head gasket on your Continental.
For the four cylinder Continental engine, use the Continental OEM Permatorque head gasket. For the six cylinder Continentals do not use the current OEM paper head gasket. It will not hold. Rather use an aftermarket steel backed one. Be careful though, there is a difference between the early and late six cylinder head gaskets and the correct one must be used. As of this Tech Tip we don't know of any Permatorque head gasket for the six cylinder Continentals. Please let us know if you come across one.
- Install the head correctly.
Take a look at Foley Tech Tip #10 Torque Values and Valve Settings for the correct torque specs, and also Foley Tech Tip #30 Installing a Cylinder Head and Tech Tip #68 Foley Engines Head Installation Check List for complete details on head installation on these Continentals.
- Re-torque it after the initial warm up.
Sure it is pain, but you have come this far so you should do it. These long, thin 50 year old Continental cylinder heads need all the help they can get.
We hope that the above Tech Tip will help people who have these Continental industrials in their fleet. Much of the same advice would also apply if you are running older White- Hercules industrial engines.
We take tech support seriously!
We hope that you will find this Tech Tip helpful. We believe that Tech Support matters and welcome your comments or suggestions.
Please email Dr. Diesel™ using our contact form or call us at 800.233.6539.